Intro to Surfing in Pacifica

It was an exhilarating experience learning to surf in Pacifica over the weekend. After some initial ground exercises with the instructor, mostly learning to paddle and learning to stand up over the board which is the tricky part, it was time to get in the water and experience the ‘real thing’. The ocean seemed to be roaring wild with the waves (just the day before there had been a tsunami warning after an underwater volcano erupted in Tonga, S Pacific). The currents were somewhat severe, the water was cold but the experience of waves rolling all over you, ducking underneath the water, some successful and some failed attempts to get over the board and then trying to surf while riding the waves were an experience that will keep me coming back for more.

Some quick points related to surfing, for posterity -

1. Stay away from the rip currents — this is the single most useful advise, if any, for surfing. The frothy, white water is where a surfer should try to be at all times. If caught in the rip current, keep cool and paddle outside it first, rather than trying to swim or paddle to the shore.
2. Learn to play with the waves — If completely new to the waves & ocean currents, play in the water (without the surf board, depending on comfort level of tugging along that 9 ft board) first and familiarize yourself with riding the oncoming waves or ducking under if the waves are above your head. When waves start to feel like fun, it’s time to get the board.
3. Proper technique to tug the surf board in the water, on your way to face the waves — this is important to keep safe and save yourself from potentially hurting yourself or others from the board or the fins underneath towards the tail of the board.
4. Learning to hop on the board and paddle — this is the fun part for sure and a proper technique is imperative to doing it safely. The energy of the water and the currents, rollicking waves and the dynamism of the floating board, all adds up to make surfing a very dynamic activity.
5. Learning to stand up on the board for real ‘surfing’ — this is the eye-catching part for everyone and makes a pretty picture of surfing too. There are several techniques for accomplishing the ‘stand up’ while surfing and everyone picks up their own style as they get into the sport. But all the techniques do require a strong core, arm muscles and a sense of balance.

Surfing is definitely a very physical activity and energy intensive, but a lot of fun at the same time. I was able to start standing up on the board after a couple hours practicing and it felt very exhilarating. The dynamism of the sport is purely enticing — think roaring ocean, cold water, swelling waves, floating surf board, leaping bodies, standing up, falling down, getting up again only to be swept by huge wave, learning to duck under water , trying to get hold of the surf board again and again with the tug of the leg tether on repeat. Welcome to catching the waves under your feet, aka surfing !

P.S. — we lost GoPro in the high waves and lost all the pics, that was a bummer!